It was the first dayÂ of our 90-mile attempt to cross the Jeinimeni Mountains in Chile. Weâ€™d been hiking steadily uphill for hours, toward a tiny creek that was clearly marked on our map. We figured on filling water bottles there, then cranking out a few more miles before making camp. But we were still wandering around in beech trees searching for that little creek when the sun set behind snowcapped peaks and the forest filled with shadows.
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